Venice Travel Tips from Gionata Smerghetto, Venetian Blogger

Conversations with Locals

Venice may be overrun by tourists, but Venetian blogger Gionata Smerghetto knows just where to go and where to avoid in the City of Canals. Gionata reveals the one authentic Venetian dish to eat, a magical staircase for a view of the city, and why Venetians are campaigning for tourists to leave. 

Photo: Gionata Smerghetto

What do you feel defines Venetian cuisine?

Venetian cuisine is strongly influenced by the Adriatic Sea. Fresh fish is the highlight of Venetian cuisine – full of delicate flavours, pure and immediate. The Rialto market is indeed the center of Venetian cuisine. Every morning at dawn, fresh fish is sold to the Venetians, who are masters at cooking it. The flavours and tastes are enhanced by the use of spices and oriental scents, originating from the historical trade of the Serenissima Republic with the East.

What is the one local dish you feel travellers can’t leave Venice without trying? 

My favourite Venetian dish that I recommend to any tourist is sarde in soar, which literally translates to sardines in flavour. It is historically a poor man’s dish, which was made using the cheap but very popular fish, stored in a baking pan covered with onions and cooked in vinegar to ensure that the sardines are preserved for as long as possible. The modern version of sarde in saor have also introduced more ingredients, such as pine nuts and raisins. It is certainly a dish not to be missed for the flavour and history of Venice.

What about your favourite restaurants?

My favourite restaurants are found in the areas behind the Rialto Bridge. They are slightly out of the touristy central square, and are not commonly featured in tourist guides. The food is rich in flavour and close to the great Venetian fish market. My favourite places to eat are Al Raspo de Ua, Al Mercà, Antico Calice and Antico Forno. They are so pretty and honest!

Photo: Gionata Smerghetto

Name one best kept secret of Venice 

One of the great secrets of Venice that I can give to tourists is to not stop in the usual tourist spots. The true Venice exists even in the most hidden streets, where you can see the authentic, everyday Venice. Try exploring using Google maps! 

The best way to experience Venice like a local is to explore it with a Venetian. I’d love to visit a city with local eyes, allowing you to see and appreciate the hidden corners of the city that never would have been identified. 

Photo: Gionata Smerghetto

Photo: Gionata Smerghetto

Name some tourist traps travellers should avoid in Venice

I think the traps to avoid for tourists are shops who are not managed by locals. Often, there are restaurants, bars and taverns opened by foreigners. In addition to the poor quality of food, you definitely pay too much for the service! And there’s no fresh Venetian fish!

Where can we go to see your favourite view of Venice?

My favourite view is of course at La Scala Contarini del Bovolo. It is a magical staircase in the heart of Venice; you will definitely feel immersed in the heart of the city and you have a 360 degree view of the Venetian landscape. It is less known to tourists, so I recommend it. 

Photo: Gionata Smerghetto

Recently, there have been news reports of locals in Venice campaigning for tourists to leave the city.

Venice unfortunately turns out to be a very expensive city, not only for tourists but also for residents to live in. Due to the difficulty in building new buildings, it is hard for anyone to develop and upgrade the city. This has caused young people and even tourists to live on the mainland, travelling into Venice everyday by public transport. 

It’s a problem difficult to solve, partly because Venice is one of the most fascinating cities in the world, and at least once in their lives, tourists from all corners of the world want to see it. It is as if it there is always a carnival along the Venetian streets, which can sometimes put a strain on those living there.

WHERE TO EAT IN VENICE


Al Raspo de Ua
Where: Via San Martino Destro, 560, 30012 Burano, Venezia VE, Italy
For: Italian food

Al Mercà
Where: Campo Bella Vienna, 213, 30125 Venezia, Italy
For: Cichetti 

Antico Calice
Where: Calle dei Stagneri, 5228, 30124 San Marco, Venezia VE, Italy
For: Seafood

Antico Forno
Where: Calle dei Stagneri, 5228, 30124 San Marco, Venezia VE, Italy
For: Pizza

WHERE TO GO IN VENICE


Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Where: Via Montacuto, 121 60129 Ancona (AN)
For: A view of Venice

Madrid Travel Tips from Omar Allibhoy, Spanish Chef of Tapas Revolution

Conversations with Locals

Since opening Tapas Revolution, Omar Allibhoy has transformed the landscape of Spanish dining in the UK, one tapas restaurant at a time. The Madrilenian is also part of the Jamie Oliver’s Food Tube family, dishing out the secrets to traditional Spanish cooking. We talk to Omar about the must-try dish from Madrid, the Spanish way to do tapas, and why you should never go for paellas in Madrid. 

Spanish Made Simple: Foolproof Spanish Recipes for Every Day by Omar Allibhoy of Tapas Revolution (Quadrille £20) Photo: Martin Poole

What do you feel defines the cuisine in Madrid?

Madrid is undoubtedly the capital of tapas. Every street is full of tapas bars, all making their own specialty. But of course it wasn’t always that way and something which is less known but equally important is the cuisine around offal. Madrid was heavily bombarded during the civil war and very poor as a result. Families used to make great recipes with cheaper animal cuts to save money and still use offal in cooking today.

How do Spanish people do tapas?

In Spain, tapas is more than just food, it’s how we connect, and is an excuse to get together. In the UK people meet ‘for a pint’, in Spain we ‘go for tapas’. Sharing food from the same plate brings us all a bit closer, and enhances conversation. It’s human nature to share what we have as opposed to eating your own thing.

When we go for tapas, we generally hop in and out of a number of tapas bars eating and drinking the house specialty of each place.

Photo: Tapas Revolution

Habas con chorizo. Photo: Tapas Revolution

What is the difference between British food and Spanish food?

Where to start? Cuisines are constantly evolving and the British food scene is now shifting with the influx of other cuisines. Unfortunately, the local produce is limited because the climate and geography is not quite as diverse as Spain.

Spanish cuisine has evolved for the last 2,000 years to become what it is today. Different cultures have chipped in – Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Christians. To put it into perspective, in Spain there is no concept of ‘Spanish cuisine’, it’s a lot more regional. For example, we have Galician and Catalonian cuisines. I think it’s fair to say there is a lot more variety in Spain compared to the UK.

What are some local dishes you feel travellers can’t leave Madrid without trying? 

Callos a la Madrileña, it’s a beef tripe stew. It may not sound appealing but it’s a very traditional dish. Otherwise, don’t leave without trying patatas bravas or a good bocadillo de calamares (deep fried squid ciabatta).

Where do you love to eat in Madrid?

I love lots of them! A few you have to try are Casa Lucio, Era, Cachivache, Sala de Despiece, Taberna de la Daniela, Combarro and St. James

Spanish Made Simple: Foolproof Spanish Recipes for Every Day by Omar Allibhoy of Tapas Revolution (Quadrille £20) Photo: Martin Poole

Name one best kept secret of Marche 

Madrid Río is the new refurb and regeneration plan for the south of Madrid and is a beautiful walk or bike ride away. Also, Parque del Capricho is one of my favourites and you hardly ever see any tourists there, so I guess it’s still a secret!

What’s your perfect itinerary to explore the city? 

Grab the bicycles, which are battery assisted, and make your own route, you are never going to see it all in one trip. If you are into food, know when you are going to finish for lunch! Maybe this Google map can help you with some of my favourite restaurants in my hometown. 

Name some tourist traps travellers should avoid in Madrid

The usual things, if there are food photos on the window, stay away from that restaurant. Paellas in Madrid are not great. Don’t waste your money in souvenir shops. Generally ask the locals, you are always closer than you think for authentic tapas.

Do paellas in Madrid taste bad? 

Paellas are only truly great in the Valencia region, where they originally come from. Rice is one of the most difficult ingredients to cook correctly in my opinion, and they are the masters of it. When in Madrid, eat like the Madrileños!

What’s your favourite day trip to take from Madrid?

I think Segovia. You can eat proper cochinillo asado (roasted suckling pig) at Meson de Candido while looking at the most stunning Aqueduct.

You recently had to defend Jamie Oliver on adding chorizo to paella. What is it about Spanish cuisine that the Spanish are so passionate about defending?

Our cuisine has been corrupted and distorted a lot because of a lack of knowledge and good communicators who spread the word about traditional Spanish cuisine. Food is fundamental to the Spanish and they don’t like to see traditional dishes messed around and altered. On the other hand, I think a bit differently.

 

WHERE TO EAT IN MADRID


Casa Lucio
Where: Calle Cava Baja, 35, 28005 Madrid, Spain
For: Spanish food

La Era Restaurante
Where: Calle de la Infanta Mercedes, 103, 28020 Madrid, Spain
For: High-end dining

Cachivache Taberna
Where: Calle de Serrano, 221, 28016 Madrid, Spain
For: Tapas

Sala de Despiece
Where: Calle de Ponzano, 11, 28010 Madrid, Spain
For: Tapas

Taberna de la Daniela
Where: Calle del Gral. Pardiñas, 21, 28001 Madrid, Spain
For: Cocido madrilenio

Combarro
Where: Calle Reina Mercedes, 12, 28020 Madrid, Spain
For: Seafood

Restaurante St James Madrid
Where: Calle de Juan Bravo, 26, 28006 Madrid, Spain (and more)
For: Rice dishes
 

WHERE TO GO IN MADRID


Madrid Río
Where: Puente de Toledo, 28019 Madrid, Spain
For: Parks and play areas

Parque del Capricho
Where: Paseo de la Alameda de Osuna, 25, 28042 Madrid, Spain
For: Parks

Marche Travel Tips from Andrea Sopranzi, Italian Graphic Designer

Conversations with Locals

Graphic designer Andrea Sopranzi hails from Marche, an under-the-radar Italian region with no lack of Renaissance towns and mountain ranges. Andrea reveals where to get Marche’s favourite salami, the place to see sunsets and sunrises over the sea, and the winery to go for Rosso Conero wines. 

Photo: Andrea Sopranzi

What do you feel defines the cuisine in Marche?

Tradition, love, taste and colour. Marche food, just like the region itself, is varied and delicious! It produces a varied and seasonal cuisine and truly distinctive wines.

Is there a particular winery that you like? 

There is a very special winery in Ancona called Cantine Moroder. The location is pretty suggestive, it is located in the middle of the hills of the region and they produce one of the most famous wine of Marche – the Rosso Conero

What makes the Rosso Conero wine so unique? 

This red wine takes its name from Monte Conero. The conditions here are special – the coast is near and being close to the sea gives a milder climate. Temperatures are not so high and the soil is calcareous. It has a deep red colour, intense aromas and flavours of black cherries intertwined with Mediterranean herbs and firm tannins.

Photo: Andrea Sopranzi

What is the one local dish you feel travellers can’t leave Marche without trying? 

I would say ciauscolo, which is a variety of Italian salami. It is very soft and can be spread on bread, with a tasty slice of cheese. Delicious!

Where should we look for ciauscolo? 

I would recommend Azienda Agricola di Maggi e Vecchioni in Serrapetrona. 

Where do you love to eat in the region?

Just to name a few, Le Clarisse in Sarnano, Osteria dalla Peppa in Fano, Ragno D’Oro in Urbino, and Casa Tintoria in Urbania. There are so many good restaurants in my region, especially in the hinterland, hidden in beautiful little villages! 

Ancona. Photo: Andrea Sopranzi

Name one best kept secret of Marche 

Definitely not a secret… But many people do not know that in some cities of Marche’s coast, you can see both the sunset and the sunrise over the sea! You can always see the sunrise over the sea in every city of the coast. But if you visit Baia Flaminia in Pesaro or the Cathedral of San Ciriaco in Ancona, you can also enjoy a beautiful sunset over the sea! 

What about the perfect itinerary to explore the region? 

Marche is a vast and diverse region. I would recommend a visit to the National Park of Sibillini Mountains, and then move to the coast and admire the Monte Conero and the beautiful surrounding beaches. Going to the north, there are many villages in the hinterland to see: one of my favourites is Urbino, a place rich in culture, history and good food – a cradle of the Italian Renaissance. 

Monte Conero. Photo: Andrea Sopranzi

Urbino. Photo: Andrea Sopranzi

Where can we go to see your favourite view of Marche?

Before arriving in Mezzavalle, a beach near Ancona, you can admire the Monte Conero and the surrounding sea. A breathtaking view which, every time, leaves me speechless!

WHERE TO EAT IN MARCHE


Le Clarisse
Area: Sarnano
Where: Via Mazzini, 240, 62028 Sarnano MC, Italy
For: Red wine pasta

Osteria dalla Peppa
Area: Fano
Where: Via Vecchia, 8, 61032 Fano, Province of Pesaro and Urbino, Italy
For: Handmade pastas

Ragno D’Oro
Area: Urbino
Where: Viale Don Giovanni Minzoni, 2/4, 61029 Urbino PU, Italy
For: Pizzas

Casa Tintoria
Area: Urbania
Where: Via Porta Mulino 4 Urbania – 61049 (PU)
For: Dining in a garden

WHERE TO GO IN MARCHE


Cantine Moroder
Area: Ancona
Where: Via Montacuto, 121 60129 Ancona (AN)
For: Wineries

Urbino
Where: Urbino, Province of Pesaro and Urbino, Italy
For: An Italian Renaissance town

Sibillini Mountains
Where: Sibillini Mountains, 63088 Montemonaco, Province of Ascoli Piceno, Italy
For: Mountain views

Azienda Agricola di Maggi e Vecchioni
Where: Località Case Sparse Borgiano, 10, 62020 Serrapetrona MC, Italy
For: Ciauscolo salami