Florence Travel Tips from Mauro Santoni, a Teacher & Arts Enthusiast

Conversations with Locals

Mauro Santoni is a Literature, History and Geography teacher living in Florence, and has a penchant for the theatre and the Arts. We talk to Mauro about his beloved home city, why Spaghetti Bolognese is not Italian, and his favourite under-the-radar art galleries in the capital of Tuscany. 

Photo: Mauro Santoni

What do you feel defines Florentine cuisine?

In the past, food in Florence was poor in quality. For example, in the Middle Ages, the city had to pay high taxes on salt, and this meant that bread was often baked without salt due to its high cost. Today, this tradition continues. Typical Florentine food such as ribollita, panzanella and pappa al pomodoro was often made with stale bread. Eventually, such dishes become rich and tasty, and have come to define what Florentine cuisine is all about.

Pappa al pomodoro is a Tuscan soup made with bread, tomatoes and olive oil.

What do you feel are the most common misconceptions about Italian food? 

Italian food is not only about pastas and pizzas, and spaghetti bolognese and Hawaiian pizza are not Italian recipes!

Is there a difference between food in Florence from other parts of Italy?

Sure, every region and city in Italy has their own type of food. For instance, Florence has very simple desserts, while Sicilian desserts tend to be rich and sweet. The character of Florentine food is formed by its ingredients which are all produced in Tuscany, such as the Chianina cow’s meat, olive oil and the Chianti vineyards!

In your opinion, which parts of Florence is the best for food?

In the city centre, that would be Santa Croce and Santo Spirito.

Where are your favourite restaurants or cafés in Florence for Italian food?

For something inexpensive, that would be the traditional Sabatino in San Frediano. For mid-range prices, Il Santo Bevitore in Oltrarno is a good choice. Il Cibreo in Sant’Ambrogio would be pricey but nonetheless, it serves great food as well.

What are some local dishes you feel travellers can’t leave Florence without trying?

The famed bistecca alla fiorentina (T-bone steak that’s served rare on the inside but seared on the outside), ribollita (Tuscan soup made with bread and vegetables) and panino al lampredotto (tripe sandwich) are an absolute must to try.

Where are your favourite art galleries in Florence?

Besides the famous art galleries (Uffizi Gallery, Galleria dell’Accademia and Palatina Gallery), I love the Bargello. It is one of the most ancient and charming buildings in Florence with the largest collection of Donatello’s sculptures. I also love the San Marco Convent, it was entirely painted by the Renaissance master Beato Angelico.

Photo: Mauro Santoni

What do you feel most travellers miss out on when they are visiting Florence?

I feel that most travellers miss out on the many cultural events of the city. Catching an opera at Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, as the Opera was practically born in Florence with Monteverdi! Watching V.O. (English dubbed) movies during one of the international cinema festivals in the gorgeous Odeon, probably the most beautiful movie theatre in Italy for its Art Nouveau style. It is also worth catching any one of the shows in the Bargello or in Strozzi’s Courtyards.

 

WHERE TO EAT IN FLORENCE


Sabatino
Where: Via Pisana, 2R, 50143 Firenze
For: Inexpensive traditional Florentine food

Il Santo Bevitore
Where: Via di Santo Spirito, 64/66, Firenze, Italy
For: Italian food at mid-range pricing

Il Cibreo
Where: Via del Verrocchio, 8r Firenze
For: High end Italian food

 

WHERE TO GO IN FLORENCE


Bargello National Museum
Where: Via del Proconsolo, 4, 50122 Firenze, Italy
For: Donatello’s sculptures

San Marco Convent
Where: Piazza San Marco, 3, 50121 Firenze, Italy
For: Art pieces by Italian Renaissance painters such as Fra Angelico and Domenico Ghirlandaio

Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
Where: Opera di Firenze – Piazzale Vittorio Gui, Firenze
For: An opera festival

Odeon
Where: Cinema Odeon Firenze, Piazza Strozzi, 50123 Firenze
For: The international cinema festivals

Strozzi’s Courtyards
Where: Piazza degli Strozzi, 50123 Firenze, Italy
For: Concerts and performances

10 Foods that Make Us Feel Singaporean

Singapore

One of the great things I love about travelling is trying out interesting and delicious food from all around the world. Yet, whenever I spend more than a week in a foreign land, I would long for the familiar taste of home. To celebrate SG50 (Singapore’s 50th birthday), I dedicate this piece to talk about the food of my home country.

Singapore is a country that boasts multicultural flavours. Head to any of our hawker centers and you’ll get what I’m trying to say. Be it Malay, Chinese or Indian, you can get almost anything. To me, the true Singaporean flavour lies in our hawker stalls in the neighbourhoods. If that’s what you’re after, time to hunt for these classic local foods!

1. Bar Chor Mee

Where: Ming Fa Fishball, 328 Bedok Road

Bar Chor Mee is a typical Singaporean dish that can be found almost anywhere. This dish uses liver, minced pork, sliced pork, meatballs, fishcakes, noodles, vinegar, chilli and stewed mushrooms. In some places, they top it off with sesame oil which enhances its flavour tremendously.

2. Tau Huey

Where: Rochor Original Beancurd, 2 Short Street, S(188211)

Tau Huey is made from soybean, and is most commonly known as soy pudding. There are many variations of this dessert in other Asian countries such as Hong Kong, Taiwan and China. In Singapore, Tau Huey is served with sugar syrup, pandan sugar syrup or soybean milk. The testament to a good Tau Huey is its soft texture. The easier it crumbles in your mouth, the better.

3. Laksa

Where: 328 Katong Laksa, 53 East Coast Road, Singapore, S(428771)

This Peranakan dish consists of rice vermicelli are cooked in curry with sliced fishcakes, prawns, beancurd and cockles. The term Katong Laksa was coined due to the popularity of a Laksa stall in the Katong area in Singapore. The noodles in a Katong Laksa is cut in smaller pieces, and can be eaten solely with a spoon.

4. Yong Tau Foo

Where: Berseh Food Centre, 166 Jalan Besar, #01-21, S(208877)

For locals, Yong Tau Foo is a common dish in hawker centres and one which boasts a healthy range of vegetables. For others, the Yong Tau Foo stall is characterised by the array of vegetables and tofu stuffed with fish paste or minced meat, placed around the storefront. You pick whatever you want and place it in a bowl, and you can choose to have it dry or in a soup. The best Yong Tau Foo stalls make their fish paste from scratch.

5. Soft Boiled Eggs with Toasts

Where: Berseh Food Centre, 166 Jalan Besar, #02-43, S(208877)

There’s nothing quite like a Singaporean breakfast than having soft boiled eggs with toasts at one of the coffeeshops. Eggs are boiled until half cooked with the yolk still runny, and the bread is toasted to perfection which results in a slightly charred appearance. You can choose to have the toasts with kaya, peanut butter or just simply butter. The practice is to dip the toasts in the runny eggs, which is usually seasoned with a little pepper and soy sauce.

6. Kway Chap

Where: Berseh Food Centre, 166 Jalan Besar, #01-21, S(208877)

Asians love braising their food and Singaporeans are no exception. Kway Chap is a Teochew dish that involves braising pork, pig’s offal, eggs and beancurd in soy sauce and spices for several hours. This gives the meat a brown colour and a strong flavour. The carbs to accompany this dish is large rice sheets soaked in a soy sauce broth. For those who don’t fancy pig’s offal, stall owners are usually willing to exclude it from the meal on request and replacing it with more pork meat.

7. Chwee Kueh

Where: Jian Bo Shui Kueh, Tiong Bahru Market and Food Centre, 30 Seng Poh Road, #02-05, S(168898)

Chwee Kueh is characterised by the shallow saucer-like shape of the mold used in making this dish. Rice flour is first mixed with water, and afterwards steamed, to make these simple rice cakes. The plain rice cakes, topped with a generous helping of chopped preserved radish and sambal chilli, makes it a savoury breakfast meal.

8. Muah Chee

Where: Block 69, Bedok South, #01-468

Do you remember the night markets in the 90s? In those days, there were plenty of bustling night markets in the neighbourhood areas. I remember being drawn to the smells of the food stalls. Muah Chee is a common street food found in these night markets. The sticky glutinous balls covered with sweet crushed peanuts serve as a delicious after meal snack. It can be quite hard to find this snack nowadays with the decline of night markets here. However, there are still a handful of neighbourhood stores that continue the tradition of making this sweet snack. Alternatively, drop by some of the shopping centres and you might just find a Muah Chee store lurking in the corner.

9. Cereal Prawns

Where: Any seafood restaurant

As its name suggests, the prawns are fried with cereal to create this restaurant favourite. The cereal used is more commonly known as oats. Curry leaves and chilli are also used in making this dish to give it an extra kick. This odd combination produces an unexpected delicious flavour that’s both sweet and savoury. You will see people not only busy shelling the prawns, but also scooping up the oats to get a mouthful of its buttery crunchy taste. Many have fallen in love with Cereal Prawns for its unique flavour.

10. Fish Soup

Where: Seng Kee Fish Soup, Bukit Merah Central, Block 163, #02-56

Fish soup is a classic favourite amongst Singaporeans, and is often served with thick rice noodles though other pairings are available such as with rice or fried noodles. The soup is slow cooked with fish to produce a thick broth. Most stalls provide an option to add milk in the soup, but the good ones are able to achieve a milky consistency to the soup without the need of milk.

What is the Singaporean dish that makes you think of home?

London Travel Tips from Valeria Necchio, Italian Food Writer

Conversations with Locals

Valeria Necchio is the author of the cookbook Veneto, where she shares her cooking and travel adventures. Raised in the countryside of Venice, she is now based in the city of London. We talk to Valeria about her favourite places in Italy for food, her love for English green asparagus, and her go-to places for gelato in London. 

Photo: Valeria Necchio/Life Love Food

What do you feel defines Italian cuisine?

Quality raw ingredients, seasonality, simple flavours and regional differences.

What do you feel are the most common misconceptions about Italian food? 

That it’s always the same stuff – pizza, lasagne, spaghetti – from North to South. I will never stress this enough: every region has some amazing dishes and specialities that are unique to that area and are worth trying. Be adventurous and ask the locals!

Sfogliatelle, a type of pastry filled with ricotta cream and sweet citrus, that can be found in Naples. Photo: Valeria Necchio/Life Love Food

In your opinion, which parts of Italy has the best food? 

It would be really hard to pick one, because there are so very many regional differences, and every region has such great food! I am of course fond of the food of my origins – Venice and the surrounding countryside – with its abundance of seafood and its focus on great seasonal produce.

Yet, if I had to pick one, Sicily would be my second region of choice – their granite, fresh ricotta and range of great seafood is truly hard to beat.

Pane cunzato, a Sicilian sandwich made from a loaf of bread. Photo: Valeria Necchio/Life Love Food

Freshly caught seafood in Sicily. Photo: Valeria Necchio/Life Love Food

Panini in Sicily. Photo: Valeria Necchio/Life Love Food

What are some Venetian dishes you feel travellers can’t leave Venice without trying?

Squid ink risotto is a great classic, but also baccalà mantecato (a sort of cream made with stockfish), and sarde in saor are great examples of Venetian cuisine. The latter is a dish made of fried sardines topped with cooked slices of sweet and sour white onion, often punctuated with pine nuts and raisins. It is served as a cold starter or bite-size snack in many traditional restaurants or osterie in the city – it’s my absolute favourite.

As a Venetian, what do you feel most travellers miss out on when they are visiting Venice? 

The city offers hidden gems to whoever dares to venture beyond the beaten path, without the fear of getting lost. The real charm of Venice is in its decadent beauty made of crumbling walls and empty small squares. Sure enough, the big attractions are worth seeing, but there is so much more to the city than St Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge.

Now that you are based in London, can you share with us your thoughts on the difference between British food and Italian food?

Italy, perhaps because of its location and its favourable climate, has a broader variety of raw ingredients available throughout the seasons. This leads to a cuisine that is varied and deeply seasonal, changing from one month to the other. Britain seems to have less of this variety – at least from a consumer perspective. It also has less regional differences. In this sense, a typical dish usually plays around the theme of ‘meat and two veg’.

That said, there is a great generation of British chefs who are changing the way people eat, and exploring new routes while making local ingredients shine.

Could you share with us some of the English food you fell in love with while you are living in London?

English green asparagus are just on a league of their own – the best asparagus I have ever tasted. There are also some truly outstanding cheese makers producing some fantastic artisan cheese, most of which can be found at Neal’s Yard Dairy.

Where are your favourite restaurants or cafés in London for Italian food?

I love Artusi in Peckham – straightforward, well-thought seasonal Italian food with great wines to pair. The River Cafe is, of course, an institution in the city, and the best place to treat yourself to a quintessential, simple-yet-sophisticated Italian meal.

Where are your favourite spots in London for a good gelato?

Gelupo serves some delicious gelato – my favourite being the seasonal and ever-changing fruit flavours. For ice cream, La Grotta Ices in Bermondsey is plain delicious.

Where are your favourite food markets in London?

Spa Terminus in Bermondsey on a Saturday morning – the best food artisans in the area open their warehouses and sell their goods to a crown of food lovers. You can find cheese, bread, fruit and vegetables, beer, gin, honey, etc. It feels a bit like a treasure hunt.

WHERE TO EAT IN LONDON


Artusi
Where: 161 Bellenden Road, Peckham, London SE15 4DH
For: Seasonal Italian food

River Cafe
Where: Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd, London W6 9HA
For: Simple and sophisticated Italian food

Gelupo
Where: No 1 Cambridge Circus London, WC2H 8AP
For: Gelato

La Grotta Ices
Where: Arch 5, Voyager South, London SE16 4RP
For: Ice cream

Neal’s Yard Dairy
Where: Unit 6 Dockley, Dockley Road, London, SE16 3SF (and more)
For: Cheese

WHERE TO GO IN LONDON


Spa Terminus
Where: Dockley Road Industrial Estate, Dockley Rd, London SE16 3SF
For: A food market