ItalianFood

The Eating Guide to Cinque Terre, Italy

Italy

The Italian Riviera is bustling with tourists, and they are all in Cinque Terre – colourful villages atop steep cliffs where no cars dare venture. Life moves a little slower here. Locals carry their goods in hand drawn carts, fishermen go out to the sea for a fresh catch, and the lemon dressing from your plate is probably picked from the tree near the restaurant. These are the five villages, and they are beachy Monterosso, rugged Corniglia, beautiful Vernazza, traditional Manarola and calming Riomaggiore. Here, we seek out the taste of the Ligurian sea. 

Look forward to: Fresh seafood and Ligurian pesto

Ristorante Belforte

Where: Via G. Guidoni, 42, 19018 Vernazza SP, Italy
What: Codfish ravioli with pesto
For: Romantic dining

Fresh seafood, homemade pesto and a view of the sea puts Ristorante Belforte on the top of everyone’s list. Ligurian recipes dominate the menu here. Ligurian pesto is the region’s most celebrated dish, and Belforte’s version has a creamy texture with a zesty lemon aftertaste. The Vernazza seafood salad is a mixture of steamed seafood topped with olive oil, lemon and parsley – the perfect antipasti to whet your appetite. Chances are that sea view seats are not guaranteed for walk-ins, so book in advance to get that spot by the sea. 

Trattoria Locanda Il Porticciolo

Where: Via Renato Birolli, 92, 19017 Manarola di Riomaggiore SP, Italy
What: Roasted fish with vegetables
For: Variety

The casual Trattoria Locanda Il Porticciolo is hard to miss if you look out for the parked boats along Manarola’s main street. Local fish dishes are some of the restaurant’s top dishes. Dig into the pappardelle with swordfish, roasted fish with vegetables, and salted anchovies with peppers. 

Aristide

Where: Via Discovolo, 290, Manarola, Italy
What: Eggs
For: Breakfast 

Breakfast eggs can be hard to come by in Italy, as locals go for a pastry and a coffee to start their day. Aristide provides a good Italian alternative to the all American breakfast. Omelettes are made with stretchy Italian cheese and parma ham. For something sweet, there is always a crostata. If you’re staying in Manarola, make this place your pitstop for your morning pick-me-up en route to the train station. 

Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre

Where: Via Gavino, 36, 19018 Vernazza SP, Italy
What: Cannoli
For: Sicilian cuisine

We may be all the way up north of Italy, but the Sicilian palate is not lost in Cinque Terre. Massimo and Gianluca are the Sicilian brothers who opened Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre, which became a breakfast favourite in Vernazza. As expected from Sicilian cuisine, desserts and pastries are the extraordinary items on the menu. It gets busy during breakfasts, and a meal there is incomplete without trying the cannoli with ricotta cheese. 

The 24 Hour Guide to Eating in Venice, Italy

Italy

It’s mid day in Venice, and the Venetians are congregating in bàcaris, where alcohol is often paired with small plates of crostinis, deep fried seafood balls and mini sandwiches. Forget the overpriced restaurants along the Grand Canal. The heart of Venetian cuisine is in this street food – cicchetti. These bite sized pieces of food are the perfect combination of Italian ingredients served on a toothpick, each ranging from one to three euros. We round up the three places you need to know if you have 24 hours in Venice. 

Look forward to: Cicchetti

Al Merca

Where: Campo Bella Vienna, 213, 30125 Venezia, Italy
What: Panini
For: Cicchetti

Equipped with just a storefront, Al Merca is a haven for the mid afternoon wine and miniature panino. No seating areas? No problem, just blend in with the locals standing in front of the store, with food and drink in hand. The counter is stuffed with panino, some with gorgonzola cheese and others with parma ham. Amongst these, other cicchetti such as deep fried seafood can be found. Take your pick from any of these, but the Italian cheese and prosciutto panino always wins. 

Osteria Alla Ciurma

Where: Calle Galeazza, 406A, 30125 San Polo, Venezia VE, Italy
What: Crostinis
For: Cicchetti

The orders never stop at Osteria Alla Ciurma, and neither does the drinking. A glass of wine starts at €1.50, and ranges from friulano to prosecco. Seating areas are few, but you wouldn’t need that if you’re going for the drinks and finger food. The top item to try? The different types of crostinis. Owner Marco Paola is a whiz at experimenting with crostini toppings, such as stuffed eggplant, baccalà mantecato (creamed codfish) and anchovies. 

Pontini

Where: Fondamenta Cannaregio, 1268, 30121 Venezia, Italy
What: Seafood pastas
For: A sit down restaurant

Of course, it’s not all cicchetti in Venice. Fresh seafood in the Venetian markets always find their way inside this trattoria along Cannaregio. To avoid the queue at Pontini, dinner at 6 pm is essential. Pastas with any kind of seafood are exceptional, as the pastas are doused in a thick seafood stock, the result of a hearty combination  of shellfish and tomatoes. Every bite is filled with the flavours of the sea. 

Lecce Travel Tips from Andrea Di Taranto, Italian Instagrammer of Apulia

Conversations with Locals

Italian Instagrammer Andrea Di Taranto is from Lecce, south of Apulia. Andrea sheds some light on Lecce’s underground river, orecchiette pasta, and the perfect 24 hours plan in the city. 

Photo: Andrea Di Taranto

What’s Italian culture? 

Italian culture is traditions, tastes, colours and scents that run through the region from north to south. Every single place is the result of centuries of history and beauty. To fully understand each place, you must immerse yourself in it to perceive all the feelings that it expresses. This is one of the things that many people don’t know about. 

What do you feel defines Lecce cuisine?

The cuisine of Lecce is very often “humble”, characterised by basic elements found within the cuisine. It consists of common ingredients found in the Mediterranean diet. Products such as oil, flour, tomatoes, beans are put together to create hundreds of very tasty recipes. A very widespread product in Lecce, particularly in Salento, is frisella, a hard salt donut of wheat flour or barley. It is often topped with tomatoes, oil, salt, and also mozzarella cheese and oregano. Among the main courses, you can try orecchiette, a special type of homemade pasta, or the characteristic ciceri e tria. For sweets, the pasticciotto is definitely the most traditional, a sweet pastry filled with custard.

What is the one local dish you feel travellers can’t leave Lecce without trying? 

A dish that should not be missed by the tourist is orecchiette. They are usually made with tomatoes but there are many variations, such as crudaiola (mozzarella, tomato and basil), turnip greens or ricotta.

Where do you love to eat in Lecce?

You can find very nice restaurants in the historical center of Lecce. In addition to eating well, you have the pleasure of being immersed in the quaint little streets of the city.
I really like to eat in different restaurants, but my favourites are Blu Notte, Il Bacaro and I Latini. 

Castro Marina. Photo: Andrea Di Taranto

Photo: Andrea Di Taranto

Name one best kept secret of Lecce

It’s well known that Lecce is a beautiful city, starting from the historical center to the modern area, but not everyone knows that in the basement of Lecce there is a fascinating world. Under the city, there is the Idume river. It is about 7km long and runs through the city. The river runs through the old town of Lecce, peeking in the basements of several ancient buildings.

What is one thing you would recommend travellers do in Lecce? 

It may seem banal, but the simple act of walking in the historical center of the city is one of the most fascinating and exciting things that a tourist might do. Strolling along Lecce’s sun-kissed stone streets and breathing in the smells of the city is a heartwarming experience. 

Photo: Andrea Di Taranto

What if you only had 24 hours? 

If I only have one day to visit the city, I would begin by entering from one of the ancient gates leading to the historical center, walk through all its lanes before reaching the cathedral and the immense piazza to admire the magnificent Baroque architectural style. After that, along the narrow streets, I would go to Piazza Sant’Oronzo where I can admire the ancient amphitheater and the church of Santa Croce. At the end of the day, I would go to the modern area to go shopping in the various shops. 

Centro Storico. Photo: Andrea Di Taranto

What’s your favourite day trip to take from Lecce? 

If I had only one day, my little day trip will be of course a coast to coast of Salento, starting from San Foca and ending at Santa Maria di Leuca. Take some photos and eat a sandwich on the beach! 

WHERE TO EAT IN LECCE


Blu Notte
Where: Via Marino Brancaccio, 2a, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy
For: Fresh fish and seafood 

Il Bacaro
Where: Via Giuseppe Parini, 14, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy
For: Steaks

I Latini
Where: Via Giuseppe Palmieri, 46, Lecce LE, Italy
For: Truffle dishes

 

WHERE TO GO IN LECCE


Idume
Where: Via Degli Amici, Lecce, Italy
For: Lecce’s underground river 

Piazza Sant’Oronzo
Where: Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 73100 Lecce LE, Italy
For: The amphitheater and the church of Santa Croce