Entering the southern port of Gili Trawangan is like stepping into a bazaar. Beachgoers cycle past even more beachgoers in their flip flops, their faces flushed pink from the sun. Musicians are playing reggae music to people lounging on beanbags, their feet stretched out on the sand. The music mingles with the smoke floating from the squids and tuna being grilled at restaurants decorated with seashell ornaments. We are being driven to the north by a horse trotting on the ground that changes from sand to deep red earth again and again to no particular rhythm. Closer to the north, the sounds of civilisation dissipate, replaced by cicadas and crowing chickens. Finally we pull up in front of our hotel and the ocean comes into full view. We kick off our sandals and sink into the water, almost forgetting that it’s time for dinner. 

FOOD 

In a way, the food on Gili Trawangan reflects the people who had come, loved and stayed. One day, we are having tagliatelle with tuna and homemade gnocchi at My House. On another, we are having skewered seafood slathered in tomato sauce at Warung Jaman Now. At the Caribbean Casa Vintage Beach, we are having cassava wedges when we find out that “The dumplings are sold out.” As we are having jerk chicken and fish stew, the waiters carry more plates to our table that is already overflowing with food. Did they misunderstand our orders? To our astonished eyes, they burst out laughing and chuckle, “Joke, it’s a joke.” We join in the laughter when we realise the meaning of it all. Island life can be pleasantly unserious.

BOAT TRIP

An early morning wake up call leads to a boat ride around the three islands with Babas and Sukry from Gili Bahari Cruise. We can’t resist plunging into the clear water for a swim before emerging for grilled bananas drizzled with tahini on toasts. It didn’t take long for us to reach Gili Meno where the ocean is met by the softest, whitest sand. I like beaches like this. It’s just bliss rolling around in the spotless sand and sea. On the way back, Babas picks up a conch from the water. After examining it, he says, “We have to throw it back. It’s too small.” It’s no wonder that the turtles love the sparkling waters of the Gilis. 

SUMI SATE

It was a rainy day when we found ourselves at Sumi Sate. A makeshift stall that had pots of boiling bakso soup and sates cooking on charcoal. That day, even the rain could not dampen the charcoal fire that was sizzling the rows of chicken and beef skewered on bamboo sticks. We could never forget this meal, the best – in our opinion – of the island. For me, it was the sate dipped in the smooth-as-butter peanut sauce. As for Roy, the bakso won his heart. 

NERO NORTH 

Our mornings are spent at the beach in front of Nero North swimming with the turtles as they breakfast on coral reefs. We do our best to idle our time away on the beach, having a glass of papaya juice or two. By the time we get up from the water, we are ready for our own breakfast of mee goreng and poached eggs on spinach toasts which lasts until the afternoon sun makes it too glaring to head to the beach. I can’t think of a better way to spend a morning at the Gilis.